Ceramics for beginners - or what I wish I’d known before starting pottery (part 1)

I turned 40 this year, and my husband got me a kiln for my birthday. I was so excited— is a kiln not the best present a person could ask for? I quickly got on the internet to order clay and glazes, and that's where I ran into my first problem: I had no idea what to buy. My only experience with pottery was from middle school, and I couldn't remember a single thing from art class. I started googling, became overwhelmed, and ended up ordering all the wrong stuff. I began experimenting with my (wrong) clay, but I felt extremely frustrated and disheartened. It took me three months to be brave enough to even set up the kiln and turn it on. It has definitely been a learning curve, and I wish there had been someone here to guide me through the process. I promised on Instagram to share everything I learn along the way, and so here we are!

My first ceramic clay creations - an orca and a little humpback whale

Understanding Different Types of Clay

Before diving into it all, I'd like to go through the different types of clay so you can choose the right fit for you. The three main types of clay used in ceramics are earthenware, stoneware, and porcelain.

Earthenware

Earthenware is commonly used for flower pots, rustic tableware, and decorative pieces. It usually has a red or orange colour (think terracotta) and has a relatively low firing temperature of around 950–1100°C. It's soft, porous, easy to shape, and overall very user-friendly. The reason I didn't even consider earthenware is that I wanted to make coffee cups and things that hold liquids, so I needed something more suitable for that.

Stoneware

Stoneware is what I use. It has a higher firing temperature of about 1180-1280°C and is usually light-toned, grey, buff, or brown, depending on the clay and oxides inside. Once it has been vitrified (meaning it has been fired to a high enough temperature that it is no longer porous), the clay is dense and waterproof, even without a glaze. Stoneware is great for both sculptures and functional ceramics, such as bowls and mugs. The texture of the clay can be either smooth or gritty. It's strong, versatile, and nice to work with.

Porcelain

Finally, there's porcelain (think fancy thin white teacups). It is very fine, silky, and smooth. Porcelain is pure white and extremely strong when fired to around 1220–1300°C, but it's difficult for beginners to work with. So, no thank you for now, but maybe in the future?

Choosing the Right Clay

Once I had settled on stoneware, I realised that it wasn't as simple as just ordering 10kg of stoneware clay. There were so many different kinds and colours, some with grit and some without. What is grit? I asked Google. I learned that it's something I want in my clay if I intend to build by hand, as the grit provides structural strength. But Google lied. I ordered gritty clay and hated it. I was used to air-dry clay and smoothing it out with water. When I tried that with my new ceramic clay, it turned into sandpaper, with all the grit particles coming to the surface.

Turns out grit is something you only need in your clay if you intend on creating very large sculptures. And I have a nice normal-sized kiln—I won't be fitting very large sculptures in there.

So, I ordered a new, smooth, grit-less clay. If you want to know exactly which one, it's the GERSTAECKER Tonmasse weiß - unschamottiert. It's uncomplicated, handy-dandy, trustworthy, inexpensive, and user-friendly. A great all-rounder that I can recommend to anyone. I have no idea whether they ship outside Germany, though.

Enjoying the Process

The new clay was so much easier to work with, and I started actually enjoying the experience. At first, I just made pinch pot mugs and bowls. This meant I would simply make a ball out of the clay, stick my thumb in the middle, and then go round and round, pinching and squeezing with my fingers to create a basic (and often lumpy) hemisphere.

My first pinch pot coffee cups. The upper one didn't make it. RIP <3

Initially, I treated the clay like air-dry clay, but I have since learned that it's actually not that similar and requires a different approach. For starters, air-dry clay solidifies and becomes stronger as it dries. The opposite is true for ceramic clay, and this brings us to the three main stages of ceramic clay: plastic, leather-hard, and bone dry.

The Stages of Ceramic Clay

• Plastic Phase: This is wet clay. It is soft, smooth, and easy to shape.

• Leather-Hard Phase: Once the clay has firmed up slightly, it's called leather-hard. The clay is still cool to the touch, but it's no longer sticky. This is the best time for trimming, carving, adding handles, or joining pieces. You'll know your clay is leather-hard when you won't leave a fingerprint, but your nail will leave an indent. (Tip! Make sure your fingernails are super short when doing pottery; it will make your life a lot easier!)

  
  

• Bone Dry Phase: When you leave your clay to dry, it will eventually turn bone dry. It becomes chalky and incredibly fragile, and it won't be cold to the touch anymore. At this stage, the clay has lost all visible moisture and is ready for its first firing, called bisque. You can't change its shape anymore, and bending or joining will cause the clay to crack. Be very careful with the clay at this point, and remember to inform anyone else who might be in contact with your creations to do the same. I learned this the hard way when my mom was visiting, and I didn't think to tell her not to lift my bone-dry coffee mug by the handle. She felt terrible, but it was my fault—there was no way she could have known!

  
  

Getting Started with Pottery

For absolute beginners, I recommend just playing around with the clay. You don't have to make anything for the kiln; you can get to know your clay first - see how it behaves, how quickly it dries, etc. There are some basic supplies that would be good to have from the beginning, but it's not a long list. A handful of simple, inexpensive tools will take you very far. Here's what I think you need to get started:

The basics - linen cloth, tools, and the dome I use to prevent the pieces from drying too fast.

1. Clay: I recommend choosing a smooth, good-quality stoneware clay. Start with a bag of about 10kg.

2. Basic Tools: There are many inexpensive sets available that include the most important items, such as a needle tool (for cutting and scoring), a wooden or metal rib (for shaping and smoothing), a sponge for smoothing (I cut a small wedge off my sponge, and it has been all I've needed so far), a trimming tool (for carving or trimming), and wooden modelling tools and silicone brushes.

   
   

3. Surface Protection: Clay will suck the moisture out of everything, including your hands and a wooden table. I use a wax tablecloth to protect any wooden surface and then place a linen cloth on it. The linen provides me with a good work surface and prevents the clay from sticking.

   
   

4. Water and Cleanup Gear: Things can get very messy. You'll need a sealable container for excess clay that can be reclaimed and used again. You'll also need a small bowl of water to dip your sponge in or to clean your tools, a rag or kitchen paper for constant wiping, and a bucket for waste. You should never pour clay down the sink because it will cause problems. Once I've cleaned and rinsed everything in the bucket, I pour it in a corner of our garden. Please be aware that you can only do this if there are no heavy metals or other harmful substances in the clay. And you can't do this with wastewater from glazing!

   
   

5. A Simple Banding Wheel: This can be very useful for hand-building and glazing. I don't think I would manage without mine!

   
   

6. A Container for Slip: Slip is basically just clay and water mixed together, and it's used as the glue for joining pieces.

   
   

7. A Kiln: More about mine in another post!

   
   

Final Thoughts on Pottery

I think that's enough for now. On a final note, I'd like to mention that proper cleanup is important, as clay and glaze materials contain silica, a mineral that’s harmless in wet clay but dangerous when it becomes airborne. It's best to wipe your work area as soon as you're finished. If you sweep or dry-dust the area, those tiny silica particles can stay suspended in the air for hours, and inhaling them over time can cause respiratory issues (in extreme cases, silicosis).

I hope this guide helps you on your pottery journey! Remember, it's all about having fun and learning along the way.